Inishowen Peninsula, Co. Donegal
I was visiting Donegal for my friend Laura’s wedding, so decided to make an adventure of it.
Our first stop was Doagh Famine Village. Shockingly, the village experienced a fire a couple of months before we visited but fortunately was able to (partially) reopen to the public soon after. My entrance fee included a guided tour and refreshments from the Red Roof Barn café. The entire premises are dog-friendly, apart from inside the café itself, but there is an expansive roofed outdoor seating area. Most of the attractions are under cover, which sheltered us from the rain.
At the Red Roof Barn, Patrick treated us to samples of local foods which historically made up the diet of the villagers. These included fresh blackberries, “Carrageen Moss” and dulce. We also had the opportunity to sample “Poitín”, a type of homemade whiskey which was deemed illegal in the 17th century, a move heavily supported by the Catholic Church.
Our next tour began in the very thatched cottage where our guide, Pat, grew up. It was inhabited until 1984, when the family moved to a more fashionable council house. Pat shared how, as a child, he would have carried water from the well back to the cottage after school. He also reminisced about digging for periwinkles and putting boiled potatoes out to attract the fish to the inlet.
As Pat took us through the various cottages, we learned different tidbits about the history of Irish life and the roots of today’s traditions. These included the origin of phrases such as “away with fairies” and “saved by the bell” and trivia like why a wake always lasts two days. Afterwards, we were free to explore by ourselves and digest the many information boards and displays of artefacts. We learned about how, despite an abundance of oysters and cash crops in the 1800s, these were all marked for export. Hence, the reliance on potatoes led to the devastation of the famine.
We of course visited the gift shop on the way out. If this appeals to you, nearby Glendowen Craft Shop has a wide range of gifts and hosts demonstrations on the weaver’s loom.
From here, we travelled to the most northernly point of Ireland, Malin Head. And oh, was it windy! We took the short cliff path to “Hell’s Hole”, a spectacular chasm in the cliff face. In the other direction is the signal tower dating back to 1805 which gave protection from French invasion. It was utilised again during WW2, when a hut was added to the cluster at what is known as Banba’s Crown and “80 EIRE” was painted in large letters on the ground to warn overflying aircraft that they were over neutral territory. More recently, this was a set location for the Star Wars movies.
A few minutes down the road is Farren’s Bar, the most northernly pub in Ireland – perfect for a post-walk stout. Dogs are welcomed.
The Grianán Of Aileach is a prehistoric stone fort, dating back to the 6th or 7th century. It would have been the royal residence of the king of Cenél nEógain, one of Ireland’s medieval dynasties. There are many references to the fort in historical documents and folklore, and it is believed that in 1101 it was demolished in an act of revenge. However, the fort was restored to its present condition in the late 1800s. Another perk of visiting this spot is the views across Co. Donegal and the neighbouring counties of Londonderry and Tyrone.
Buncrana is another bustling tourist spot. We didn’t spend long here but did take time to admire the picturesque Crana (castle) bridge. Buncrana lies within Amazing Grace County – in 1748, the former slave-trader John Newton was shipwrecked nearby. After this near-death experience he dedicated his life to God, writing the now famous hymn which earned the area this name.
We were staying in Kerrykeel, on the other side of Lough Swilly. We drove around the tip of the Lough on our way out, but took the ferry for the return journey from Buncrana to Rathmullan, which lasted about 35 minutes . It’s a small ferry and we stayed in the car throughout the journey.
