Central Co.Donegal
It was time for us to move to our second accommodation of the trip, Frank the Shipping Container. Located just south of the town of Dungloe, this was the perfect base for exploring south and west Donegal. Frank sits over his own pond, cantilevered out as far as engineering allows. In fact, he’s named after architect Frank Lloyd Wright who was known for working with such structures. The interior felt modern and was well-equipped. I booked via Under The Thatch, who have several other quirky properties in the area.
Credit: Under The Thatch
A short drive away from Frank is Dooney Beach, where Rita absolutely loved running around at sunset. Next to the beach sits the Wild Atlantic Sauna – perfect for warming up after a sea dip (or, if you’re like me, just to enjoy the heat without the plunge). I booked in for 8pm with the lovely Mags for a 45-minute social session. This means you share with others, but there were only two of us this evening - I shared with Maeve, who was great company. The sauna is very calming, not only because of the heat and essential oils, but due to the views over the shoreline. There are several saunas like this dotted around the coastline, but I think this one is particularly special with its glass wall and private changing area.
We took an afternoon to explore Glenveagh National Park, which sits amongst the picturesque Derryveagh Mountains. The focal point of the park is Glenveagh Castle, which dates back to the late 1800s, and hence was built by the wealthy Captain John George Adair during the Victorian era, rather than medieval times. It changed hands throughout the years, including a period of occupation by the IRA, before being left to the Irish government in 1981.
From the visitor centre car park, you can either take the shuttle bus or walk 3.5km to the castle along the gravelled Lakeside trail. As dogs aren’t allowed on the shuttle, we didn’t have a choice. This was ok, the walk was pleasant but I probably would rather have taken one of the trails with viewpoints which leave from the castle. At the castle, we admired the garden and visited the gift shop selling locally made dog treats.
We then made our way South, past the stunning scenery of Mt Errigal.
Credit: Lukassek, Adobe Images
Bád Eddie (Eddie’s Boat) has been an icon in Bunbeg for over 50 years, since it ran aground on the beach. Due to its swift deterioration, there have been plans to preserve or make a replica of it in recent years. Rita and I visited the Magheraclogher Beach where she could have a run around while checking out the wreck.
Donegal Town may not be the largest in the county, but it’s full of history and quaintness. Rita and I joined a walking tour led by dog-lover Niamh of Donegal Town Walking Tours to learn more. She even comes equipped with poo bags, just in case! We set off from the tourist information centre, next to pier. Here Niamh shared her knowledge of Red Hugh O'Donnell, who was pivotal in defending the town against the English to the anchor which was cut off a French allies’ ship in a panic after being intercepted by the British Navy. In the Diamond, we learned how activities there evolved from markets selling potatoes and cows, with the town scales set in the centre, to today’s musical events under the marque. We visited the Abbey graveyard, learned of the Annals of the Four Masters, encountered a “milestone”, crossed the River Eske, and got a close-up view of Donegal Castle. My knowledge of the whole county was greatly improved by the end of the 90 minutes.
After the tour, Rita and I wandered around the shops. Most are dog-friendly, but do check. The Donegal-based cloth makers Magee have been in operation since 1866, and have their flagship store in the town – perfect if you would like a tweed suit or woollen jumper. Upstairs, you can see a hand loom, and they sometimes hold weaving demonstrations.
A few minutes’ drive outside the town is Donegal Craft Village. This is a small collection of shops comprised of local artists, including pottery, glass, jewellery and paintings. It’s a dog-friendly spot, including the Aroma coffee shop.
On our last day in Donegal, we spent a fun afternoon at Oakfield Park. It’s hard to define what this place is exactly – it’s a privately owned estate but is open to the public with lots of family-friendly activities. The best part? Dogs are very much welcomed. Quoted from their website: “one of the best places for people to bring their dogs with no threat of traffic and plenty for your pooch to peruse. We absolutely love to see people and their dogs in the gardens”. It was not lost on me that I was one of many ladies in their 30s, the difference being they had their toddlers with them, but I had my four-legged sidekick!
Upon entering, it’s hard not to feel a sense of playfulness due to the uplifting music playing through the trees, and the coloured bunting strung across the quaint courtyard. First up, we took the Difflin Lake Railway, on the Early of Oakfield engine, around the park, which gave us an overview of the park and helped us to get our bearings. The train was very fun; we were in our own carriage and Rita was able to look out the window. It even whistled. Then we took a wander along the pathways, through the Woodland Walk and the Faerie Trail. We encountered various sculptures, bridges and ponds. I had a go on a tree swing, and Rita and I tackled the maze. Some of my other favourite parts were “Cling Film bridge”, the castle and “Morholt”.
The “Longsleeper” is designed so as to create a sense of movement as you encircle it, and realtes to the biblical story of the Seven Sleepers of Ephesus. It’s also designed to frame Croaghan Hill in the distance.
